Captivated by the magnificent Victoria Falls

The international media paint Zimbabwe in a dim light, and for many, this would be sufficient to deter them from visiting one of the mightiest natural features in Africa.

However, for many years, Victoria Falls had been on my bucket list. And now, together with family, it was time to live the dream.

Sitting on the Zambezi river between Zimbabwe and Zambia, 10 million cubic litres of water per second pour over the top when the flow is at its strongest, normally in May or June. The town of Victoria Falls sits on the Zimbabwe side, while the town of Livingstone is its Zambian relation.

I’m not a first-time visitor to Zimbabwe, but it was a long-held ambition to get to the smoke that thunders. And together with my wife and the little bundle of energy that is my eight-year-old daughter, it was time to find out what it had to offer for families.

Victoria Falls is a small town with a well-established reputation of being a mecca for adrenaline junkies. It caters for everything from hotels full of colonial splendour to budget hostels aimed at backpackers. Arriving at a modern clean airport, everyone is friendly, relaxed and pleased to see you.

We were booked to stay at Nguni Lodge, a relatively new small hotel that is cosy and comfortable, with a small bar and restaurant area and a plunge pool ideal for cooling off from the unforgiving sun. The manager, Brenda, recently returned from a long period working in South Africa. She is very happy to spend time offering her insights on what to do and where to go, and nothing is too much trouble for any of the staff.

We started off with a visit to the Victoria Falls Hotel, built by the British in 1904 to accommodate workers on the planned Cairo-to-Cape Town railway. It remains the epitome of colonial-era elegance, full of wood panels, hunting trophies and a beautiful view of Batoka gorge. The spray rises from the falls high into the air. The Stanley terrace offers an eclectic menu and decent wine list, with the soothing background of the water thundering over the falls. 

The next stop was the falls themselves. The Zimbabwe side offers several viewpoints, where you get magnificent views of the various cataracts that collectively make up the falls. There are park fees to pay. However, the whole area is immaculate, with regularly placed knowledgeable rangers and an array of roaming animals to make you jump, but don’t worry, they are harmless. Do be prepared to get wet from the spray. However, it was so hot on our visit that the soaking received was extremely welcome.

For children under 15, many of the more adrenaline-creating activities are understandably not possible. However, we struck a great balance with the canopy tour that takes place in the forested area next to the gorge. This consists of an aerial journey of nine separate zip lines that combine excellent views along the gorge with a dose of excitement, while remaining under the well-drilled safety of the instructors, who see you off and receive you on each and every separate zip. It's open to all ages and fitness levels, and offers some great photo opportunities. 

To unwind in the evening, there is nothing better than a gentle sunset cruise along the upper Zambezi river. There are various options. We opted for the wood-panelled elegance of the Ra-Ikane, which was accompanied by some enticing canapés and a never-ending supply of liquid refreshments. We were privileged to witness elephants frolicking at the water's edge, a wide array of birdlife and a number of tempestuous hippos, all vying with each other noisily for supremacy in their respective river domain.

Travelling back to your accommodation after dark requires a little caution. Not because of crime — I was assured it is almost non-existent here — but because there is a very strong possibility that an elephant may take exception to your presence. Though being in a taxi alleviates the risk, and any restaurant or hotel will organise this for you, or you can easily find one in the town at any time. 

No trip would be complete without stepping onto the bridge that crosses the gorge from one country to another. For the more intrepid, this is also where you can hurl yourself off while attached to a bungee cord. You exit Zimbabwe and, after about a kilometre of no man's land, find yourself at Zambian immigration, with the odd baboon lurking surreptitiously and glaring at you with an ill-disguised loathing.

A short stroll past the curio market and the subsequent immaculately maintained grounds, pausing only to scan for lurking crocodiles at the waterhole, brings you to the Royal Livingston Hotel. Set on the banks of the river just a short hop from the edge of the falls themselves, this hotel is a lesson in opulence. It boasts of sweeping lawns, an inviting swimming pool and two restaurants on the water's edge, where you can pass lazy hours with gin and tonics, a lazy lunch and an occasional elephant on the far bank. 

This is also the starting point for a trip to Livingstone Island, on the brink of the falls. The infamous British explorer David Livingstone visited the Island in a Mekoro dugout canoe in 1855. Nowadays, we have the luxury of high-powered boats, which can easily temper the deceptively powerful current as the river surges for the precipice.

Depending on the water level, there is the option to prove your mettle in either the Devil's or Angel's Pool. These are located literally on the edge of the falls. However, many years of exploration means the guides know exactly what you can and can’t do. But for the intrepid, you can come away with pictures that show you (at least give the appearance) were on the very edge of a thousand-foot drop. Children under 12 are not allowed in the pools, for good reason. However, my intrepid mini traveller was allowed pretty close, so she can definitely chalk that one up.

Depending on your budget and your appetite for adventure, there are two ways to see the falls from above. For about $300 (Sh30,000 ), you can spend about 20 minutes circling the falls in a helicopter to get those all-important aerial shots, which can adorn the walls back home. Or, for the bolder, there is the option of a microlight flight, which gets you much closer to the falls while providing the sensation of being Superman, soaring through the air.

For a more sedate experience, it is worth sampling the steam train, where you can view the falls through the windows of the 1952 locomotive, while tucking into a three-course meal prepared by the Victoria Falls hotel. There are also a number of unique experiences, such as the elephant encounters, walking with lions and visiting locals in their homes to see for yourself the way of life and sample some local sadza (maize-derived staple food).

If shopping is your thing, the local markets offer plenty of locally produced artefacts. You can test your bargaining skills, knowing you are supporting local artisan craftsmen and women.

While there is a cash crisis in Zimbabwe, the high-end tourism operators have worked hard to make sure your experience is seamless. The hotels and restaurants provide friendly excellent service, will cater for dietary requirements and will accept card payments. While it is a fair bit more expensive to eat out than in neighbouring South Africa, it is on a par with Kenya or Zambia and of consistently excellent quality. For when out exploring, it is shrewd to bring plenty of low denomination dollar notes, as Zimbabwe adopted the US dollar as its currency following a period of hyperinflation, which made the previous currency untenable. 

You can combine Victoria Falls with a visit to one of Zimbabwe’s fantastic national parks. Sticking to a Zambezi theme, you can visit the manmade wonder of Lake Kariba or the magical Mana pools or take to the water on a luxury houseboat. One thing for sure is that Zimbabwe is on the road to reclaiming its status as a premier destination in Africa, and rightly so. I love it and it won’t be long before you will need to book well in advance to even secure a spot!