Soi Restaurant: redefining Thai cuisine

Ever since Soi Restaurant at dusitD2 opened its doors in September, the reviews from friends has been super. After hearing that it registers fully booked nights 90 per cent of the time, I decided to pay a visit and find out what all the brouhaha was about.

The restaurant specialises in Thai cuisine and is reflected in its decor. A beautiful hand crafted wooden door stands out as you walk in.

As it is a quiet afternoon, I get to meet Thanakrit Karaket, the chef de cuisine who explains the various items on the menu that he created.

We start off with the recommended appetisers that include duck spring rolls and fried Thai ravioli.

The duck is divine. It’s not oily, the skin is crispy and the accompanying sweet plum sauce, is every bit as sweet as it sounds. The fried Thai Ravioli was a bit tangy. It was basically a fusion of mushrooms, sweet corn, coriander, vegetable soya beans and tom yum sauce. Then it’s wrapped in naan and fried. A very suitable and tasty alternative for vegetarians.

Next was the starters; spicy glass noodle salad and the Kho Soi soup. The salad at first glance did not look very appetising but after tasting it, I was hooked. Minced chicken, mint, white onion all mixed together with glass noodles and a spicy Thai aromatic dressing, makes for a meal in itself. Same can be said of the Kho Soi soup. A thick, creamy soup made with coconut, chilli, red curry, egg noodles and topped up with coriander. I was surprised it did not come with the usual accompaniment of bread but I wasn’t complaining, my stomach was starting to fill up and we had barely gotten to the main meal. The soup warms you up instantly and can be a optimal choice during the cold season.

Finally and much to our dismay the main course is brought. Whoever said Thai cuisine is intimate, lied. The portions were large and we wondered how we would manage to finish. That said, it is interesting to note Thai cuisine keeps meat portions to a minimum so that the taste is fully experienced. We had the lamb curry; pin needles calamari and the Pad Thai noodles with prawns.

Piercing the lamb took it right off the bone. The effect of having it slow cooked for 24 hours left the lamb soft, full of flavour and just melted in the mouth. Braised in massaman curry (mild) with sweet potatoes and fried onions, this dish is quite popular and a favourite of the Thai.

The highlight of the binge was the Pad Thai. Traditionally, this is a popular stir-fried noodle dish served on the streets in Thailand. However Soi has tweaked it and made it to be the most ordered dish at the restaurant. It did not disappoint. Made of egg noodles, assorted vegetables, onions and peanuts, the dish is then wrapped inside an omelette and served hot. It is accompanied by fried, crispy, filling tamarind prawns. Bliss!!!

After such a meal, dessert was not an option and I gladly leaned my head back and closed my eyes for a few minutes. I now knew what the hullabaloo was about and couldn’t agree more. Try it out. You’ll thank me later.

Price range: Approx. Sh5,000 for a two course meal for two.