Kwaheri Kenya: A farewell to the country that became my home

As I prepare to bid Kenya farewell, I have come to realise some places never truly leave us. For me, Kenya has been one of those places, and I would like to reminisce about a few of the memorable moments that made this four-year journey so meaningful.

Kiswahili ama Sheng?

Ngũgĩ wa Thiong'o once said that languages are like musical instruments.

Hapa Kenya, my mwalimu, Kings, taught me how to play Kiswahili music.

He started teaching me the language when I arrived in Kenya, using children’s books which, as it turns out, are great for learning animal vocabulary that comes in handy during game drives. We quickly transitioned to conversations kwa ground… I particularly enjoyed the meanings of methalis that carry a lot of wisdom. Take this one, for instance: Akili ni nywele, kila mtu ana zake! I was reassured that the proverb still works even if you are bald!

I owe Kings my deepest gratitude, not only for the lessons but also for the great laughs we shared.

However, one frustration still remains; my command of Sheng is still pretty shaky. Learning Sheng was a whole different experience. It’s a language that keeps evolving.

What’s more interesting? I was told that Nairobi’s Sheng varies from place to place - the one in Kibera is apparently slightly different from the one spoken in Mathare - and Sheng changes with time. It can be a bit overwhelming for a millennial like me trying to keep up!

Ultimately, I have been deeply impressed by the power of languages to connect people and foster mutual understanding. These languages do not feel foreign when people embrace learning them.

In Kenya, an English-speaking country, more than 50,000 Kenyans are learning French, largely because it is perceived as a vector of opportunity.

Every year, 150 young Kenyans travel to France to teach English in French primary and secondary schools, gaining invaluable international experience.

Nairobi ama Kanairo?

I will dearly miss this city's welcoming charm and vibrant urban culture. Nairobi ni home!

The city is also unmistakably known as one of the top capitals for sherehe. If you go to a sherehe, you won’t miss the Kenyan sound.

I truly enjoyed listening to music by Sauti Sol, Bien, Nyashinski, Coster Ojwang, and many others, and will continue to do so. I am glad that some of these artists featured or performed in the Africa Forward concert this past May. I look forward to introducing more audiences in Europe, especially in France, to Kenya’s thriving urban and pop music scenes. This is part of our continued support for the creative industries.

Additionally, I truly appreciated the sense of humour that wrapped around most of our conversations over the past four years. Nairobi even has a comedy bar where talented artists like, Munene, revisit the local political scene and tear you apart! There are days I would go there, incognito, to have a good laugh, even though I ran the risk of being pulled into the show as a Balozi!

I was often asked what my favourite place in Nairobi is. Without a doubt, I would say the CBD. Why? Well, it's because of its energy and unpredictability. The CBD transforms completely over the weekends.

I remain grateful to Kissmart and Mrembe for introducing me to their world and convincing me to hop into a Nganya, during a tour with their company, Nai Nami (Nairobi na Mimi)!

I am especially proud that the Alliance Française continues to thrive there, offering French classes and giving opportunities for creatives to showcase and nurture their talents.

It was also fitting that the first day of the Africa Forward Summit - gathering more than 6,000 people, including Heads of State, captains of industry, civil society representatives, athletes and artists - took place at the University of Nairobi grounds, right in the iconic CBD where Kenya and Africa meet.

UON, as it's widely known, is where France is investing in a new engineering and science complex because we firmly believe that Kenyan and African youth will be the ones bringing solutions to the world on topics such as artificial intelligence and climate change.

Running and tennis

Sports has been a key pillar in our partnerships, and Kenya is world-renowned as the home of champions, especially in long-distance running.

Therefore, sports diplomacy has featured prominently in our engagements, particularly in the context of the 2024 Paris Olympics and beyond.

The partnership between the city of Miramas in the South of France and the world-famous town of Iten in Kenya is a true symbol of the friendship and goodwill between France and Kenya and a lasting legacy of the Olympics.

Asante to the International Olympic Committee Member and Kenyan long-distance running legend Paul Tergat and French mayor Frédéric Vigouroux for playing a key role in turning this vision into a reality.

On a more personal note, I was privileged to run alongside the ultimate champion, Eliud Kipchoge, with French President Emmanuel Macron on the margins of the Africa Forward summit. I must confess: I had to train and rehearse specifically for that Arboretum hill, which was a killer!

Running also introduced me to Nairobi’s growing urban running culture, where people come together to take over Nairobi's streets and enjoy good company. Thank you We Run Nairobi!

As an avid tennis player, I also developed a close relationship with Tennis Kenya, led by its President, Waniru Mbugua-Karani. I attended several major tournaments in Nairobi, and I thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere at the Billie Jean King Cup and Davis Cup team games. I am truly excited that a new partnership has been established between France and Kenya to support the development of Kenya’s promising young tennis players.

Baba

I met Baba Raila Odinga through his elder brother, Senator Oburu Odinga, right after a visit to Bondo and the Jaramogi mausoleum, a great place to delve into Kenya’s modern political history. Baba reflected on his long struggle against dictatorship and for the establishment of democracy in Kenya.

However, one story stuck with me; he recounted how he escaped to Uganda on a small boat across Lake Victoria, with only a bottle of vodka to keep him warm!

We also discussed Kenya’s energy future, including the importance of developing diverse energy sources such as nuclear power.

I was deeply saddened to hear of Baba's demise just three weeks after our meeting.

Ujenzi wa Taifa ama UGenZ wa Taifa?

This was a phrase from my 2025 Bastille Day speech, following two consecutive years of youth protests in Kenya. I appreciated the play on words, especially the meaning behind it, suggesting inclusivity and intergenerational dialogue.

The creativity, talent, and energy of the young people of Kenya have consistently impressed me. This is why, throughout my tenure, we have developed a youth-centric approach to our partnerships, with key interest in skilling and human capital, to enhance opportunities.

Sikia sauti ya ground

As much as I enjoyed living in Nairobi, visits to different parts of the country have helped me balance my work between boardroom meetings and field visits - ama ziara kwa ground.

My team has helped me document those visits. Each trip reminded me that partnerships are ultimately about the people: witnessing projects transform communities, discovering inspiring local initiatives, and sharing memorable moments through song and dance.

Being myself from a coastal community, I truly related to pwani where Kiswahili culture is blent from different influences. Asante sana to Swahilipot for being an anchor for creativity on the coast.

I will definitely remember all the smiles and warm welcomes I received.

Tea or coffee?

I must confess: I have never been a tea drinker. Kenyan coffee faithfully started my mornings, and I will never forget its rich aroma.

However, a year ago, we embarked on an initiative with Equity CEO Dr James Mwangi to position Kenyan speciality tea like Champagne!

During the State Dinner at the Kenyan State House, tea was served alongside Champagne during the Africa Forward summit. Today, some of Kenya’s purple tea is sold at 20 times the price of conventional tea, offering better returns for farmers! We have definitely made great strides in ensuring that this tea is recognised as a premium product worldwide.

As I return to Paris, I suspect there will be mornings where I might set my coffee aside and pour myself some Kenyan room-temperature tea (no sugar, no milk, please – as I was taught!) into a wine glass, reminiscing about the beautiful tea slopes of Murang'a.

Dear Kenya, the pain of parting is nothing to the joy of meeting again.

Kwaheri Kenya tutaonana baadaye. Asanteni

The writer is the French Ambassador to Kenya