A group of people pose for a photo at one of Ronnie Ngetsa’s coconut bars in Tezo, Kilifi County, Kenya, April 2025. Photo: Velma Pamela, bird story agency.
Velma Pamela, bird story agency
As nightfall descends over Tezo, a town on the Kenyan coast, villagers convene in a coconut grove on the sandy shoreline, swapping news, telling stories and and debating vigorously to the clinking of calabashes, laughter and the earthy-sweet smell of freshly tapped palm wine, mnazi.
These nightly socials are an integral part of Kenya's coastal culture. This deep-rooted connection between people and the coconut palm isn’t unique to Tezo or even to Kenya.
The coconut tree is an important part of daily life throughout Africa. Its fruits, sap and fibers power economies, nourish families and preserve traditions.
According to the Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO), 2023, approximately 10 million households in Sub-Saharan Africa rely on coconut-related livelihoods, highlighting the tree's critical importance as both a cultural emblem and a source of survival across the continent.
Ronnie Ngetsa, a 45-year-old coconut farmer and entrepreneur from Tezo, has turned the cultivation of palm trees and wine production into a thriving network of palm wine businesses.
He distributes coconut seedlings up and down the coast, helping to preserve the area's agricultural legacy. His inspiration, he said in an interview with bird story agency, came from his father, who first started the project back in 1963.
“I grew up seeing them doing the business of palm wine, makuti, and coconut fruits,” Ngetsa recalled.
Ngetsa's venture into coconut farming began in 2010. As his palms grew, he expanded into mnazi manufacturing.
“I remember my grandfathers and uncles couldn’t go to a ceremony without palm wine. Even my sister’s marriage couldn’t happen without the other side bringing it,” he says.
“I picked it up from there and saw it’s a drink loved by many, and I knew I could benefit from it.”
The work of procuring palm wine starts before sunrise and is also done in the evening. Skilled tappers, some with years of practice, climb the slender coconut trunks, typically barefoot.
"I get a minimum of twenty bottles in the morning, and the number slightly reduces in the evening due to the high temperatures. In rainy seasons, the tree produces up to forty to forty-five bottles in one tapping," Anderson Charo Chiwai, a tapper, explained.
To stimulate sap flow, a section of the tree's flower stalk is delicately shaved at the top and secured with a strip of linen.
The tapper then places a container beneath the wound, usually a clean plastic bottle or traditional gourd, to catch the sap as it drops gradually throughout the day.
If collected early, the fresh, sweet liquid will have spontaneously fermented by the evening, converting into mnazi - a slightly sour, mildly alcoholic drink. Most tappers leave it overnight to intensify the flavor.
“I return later in the day to repeat the cut, which stimulates additional sap, and the cycle continues. So, in total, we climb the tree three times a day,” Chiwai explained.
In addition to Ngetsa’s farming business, he sells the traditional beverage at pubs that he owns. Known as mangwes, they serve as secure gathering spaces and places of employment.
“Today, I have eight mangwes spread out in Gede, Chumani, and Kilifi town, and three here in Tezo,” he said.
“Through these, I’ve managed to employ more than 20 women who are now able to support their families. That’s something I’m really proud of.”
Gloria Pili Kahindi, who oversees one of the dens, said that her work provided her with both financial independence and respect in her community.
"I am able to provide for my children, pay my rent, and support my family. Many women in my community are discovering empowerment via this work," she said.
Ngetsa's passion for the coconut sector goes beyond mnazi production and selling palm wine. He began producing and selling coconut seedlings to ensure the long-term viability of this valuable resource.
By delivering high-quality seedlings to local farmers and even exporting them to other parts of Kenya, Ngetsa has helped fosters reforestation and the preservation of coconut farming traditions.
Lucky Kazungu, a passionate environmentalist from Ganze sub-county in Kilifi, emphasized the environmental benefits of expanding coconut production.
"Coconut trees help prevent soil erosion, promote biodiversity, and act as a carbon sink," he explained.
"By encouraging more planting beyond the coastal areas, we not only support farmers economically but also help tackle environmental challenges like land degradation and climate change."
However, Ngetsa's journey has not been without challenges. The mnazi sector confronts challenges such as regulatory barriers and health risks associated with alcohol consumption.
Furthermore, the labor-intensive nature of sap tapping, as well as the physical risks involved, discourages many people from entering the industry.
In addition, inconsistencies in weather patterns, particularly prolonged droughts, can have a significant impact on sap yield. Because of the informal nature of the business, many workers lack social safeguards, such as insurance or access to healthcare.
Nonetheless, mnazi has enormous nutritional benefits. It is high in potassium, magnesium, and antioxidants and can help with digestion and increase energy levels when used properly.
John Chome Kiponda, who proudly describes himself as a young farmer, started his career by planting 10,000 coconut seedlings for a private group.
After executing the order, the money was good, and he decided to start a business with the help of his father.
“2015 and 2016 were really tough for our family, we had loans and school fees to pay,” he recalls. “But starting with coconut planting helped us a lot, and that’s when I knew this was the business.”
Coconut tree farming may support sustainable, community-driven agriculture. The tree continues to foster communal ties and preserve cultural heritage "I'm not just doing this for business," Ngetsa said.
"The tree is a part of who we are. If we care for it, it will continue to provide for future generations.”
