From tailoring shop to textile empire: Jas Bedi on industry, jobs and global competition

FROM a family tailoring business to one of East Africa’s most integrated textile manufacturing empires, Jaswinder “Jas” Bedi has spent decades navigating the turbulence of African industry.

Bedi Investment controls the entire value chain from fiber to fashion and employs over 2,000 workers, while supporting 16,000 local cotton farmers. Incorporated in 1972 and headquartered in Nakuru, Bedi Investments Limited is one of the largest vertically integrated textile and garment manufacturers in Sub-Saharan Africa.

A manufacturer, investor and influential business leader, Bedi has built his career on turning crises into opportunities—from the rise of mitumba imports and global competition to supply chain disruptions and shifting export markets.

As former chairman of the Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM), Chairperson of the Kenya Private Sector Alliance (KEPSA), and Vice Chairman of the East African Business Council (EABC), he has been at the centre of debates on industrialisation, competitiveness, regional trade and job creation. 

He reflects on his entrepreneurial journey, the future of Kenya’s manufacturing sector, East Africa’s industrial ambitions, and why competitiveness remains the defining challenge for business and economic growth.

You grew up in a family business that evolved into one of East Africa’s leading textile manufacturing groups. What early experiences shaped your entrepreneurial mindset?

The early growing-up experience was listening to shop talk at the dinner table and  quietly grasping knowledge without any attempt

You studied textile technology in the UK before returning to Kenya. At what point did you realise manufacturing would become your life’s mission?

I was sent to the UK specifically to learn about textiles as my family was embarking on a textile investment and thereby, I was clear that would be my life’s mission

The textile industry in Kenya has gone through dramatic highs and lows over the last four decades. What kept you committed to the sector when many others exited?

I looked at every crisis as an opportunity. The initial mitumba crisis meant we diverted our business to uniforms that are not affected by mitumba, the Covid crisis meant we manufacture PPE, lack of locally sourced cotton meant we relocated this production to Uganda.

You have often spoken about seeing opportunity in adversity. Was there a defining setback in your career that fundamentally changed how you lead business?

I guess the defining setback was the influx of mitumba, which meant either you export or perish.

Looking back, what leadership lessons did you learn from transforming a family tailoring business into a vertically integrated textile manufacturer?

Verticality started by cushioning the company from low-quality local raw materials in search of high-quality export potential.

Bedi Investment has grown into a fully integrated textile and apparel value chain employing thousands of workers and cotton farmers. What has been the secret behind that growth?

There is no secret except securing the supply chain. That is the most important thing.

Your business spans spinning, weaving, dyeing, garment production, and exports. Why was vertical integration important for competitiveness?

Cotton and polyester are commodities that have volatile spikes in price. Hence, to cushion the company from this price volatility, verticality helps cushion this adversity.

Kenya’s textile sector was heavily affected by cheap imports and market liberalisation. How did Bedi Investments survive while many factories collapsed?

We embarked on mitumba-free, fashion-free, and recession-free product lines such as uniforms and corporate wear. This helped us to remain in business and continue to grow. 

Sustainability and traceability are becoming critical for global buyers. How is Bedi Investments adapting to changing international standards?

We embrace to sustainability and traceability since it helps secure export orders.

You employ thousands directly and indirectly through cotton farming networks. How important is manufacturing in addressing unemployment and social stability in Africa?

The textile apparel industry is labour-intensive and thereby to address the unemployment problem facing Africa, we have no choice but to invest in the value chain to secure social peace.

What role should local cotton farming play in reviving East Africa’s textile ecosystem?

Improve cotton yield by good agronomics to improve cotton income.

 As a manufacturer, what are the biggest operational challenges businesses face in Kenya today—energy costs, logistics, taxation, or regulation?

Generally, it is the high costs of doing business that are making it difficult to compete in the global arena. 

During your tenure as the Kenya Association of Manufacturers chairman, what achievements are you most proud of?

Making KAM independent and financially stable with its building, which is an income-generating asset.

You were among the strongest voices advocating for industrialisation and export-led growth. Do you think Kenya has moved fast enough in supporting manufacturers?

Kenya continues to import more than export. The issue of global competitiveness is crucial to reverse this status. 

What policy battles during your KAM leadership were the most difficult?

Advocacy to become globally competitive.

 If you were advising a young entrepreneur today, would you still encourage them to invest in manufacturing.

Yes, with a strong agenda of import substitution.

As Kepsa chairman, what do you see as the biggest economic risks facing Kenya’s private sector today?

Global competitiveness.

How would you describe the current relationship between the government and the private sector in Kenya?

It is a partnership that can surely deliver a win-win agenda.

 Many businesses argue that the cost of doing business in Kenya is becoming unsustainable. What urgent reforms are needed?

Kenya needs to address five drivers of competitiveness. One is the bill of materials that is benchmarked on global prices,  two is financing, especially cost and tenor, then productivity, which is unit cost of production, utilities, which is power and water, then logistics, that is inbound and outbound.

SMEs are often described as the backbone of the economy, yet many struggle to scale. What practical support mechanisms should the government prioritise? Create an ecosystem to support innovation, skills upgradation, education, and a relevant curriculum.

Kenya has a young and rapidly growing population. How can the private sector create enough jobs to absorb this workforce?

Embrace labour-intensive industries and give incentives for growth. What sectors besides textiles do you believe hold the greatest potential for industrial transformation in Kenya?

What sectors besides textiles do you believe hold the greatest potential for industrial transformation in Kenya?l for industrial transformation in Kenya?

I would say agriculture and agri-business. There is huge potential there.

As vice chairman of the EABC, how do you assess the current state of regional integration in East Africa?

It is 25 years and member states continue to insist that the CET needs to stop.

You have warned about protectionism slowing intra-African trade. What specific barriers are hurting businesses the most?

Unlevel playing field, extractive infrastructure, costs of doing business.

 East Africa has enormous market potential, yet intra-regional trade remains relatively low. Why has progress been slow?

Political goodwill influenced by protectionism, advocated by individual member states private sector.

How can East African countries move from exporting raw materials to building regional manufacturing value chains?

Adequately protecting the degree of processing using the common external tariff effectively in all value chains.

Do you believe East Africa can become a globally competitive manufacturing hub?

Only if we address the costs of doing business and the unit cost of production.

What lessons can African countries learn from Asia’s industrialisation journey?

Economies of scale and economies of scope to manufacture quality products competitively.