Rains have wreaked havoc in game parks

FLOODS: Mara River has burst its banks.
FLOODS: Mara River has burst its banks.

Deputy President William Ruto was quoted as saying that Kenyans have a special way of doing their thing. I certainly concur with him. After such a grueling period of politicking, competition, winning and losing, things seem to have come back to normal all over the country.

What is noticeably abnormal is the rains. Rains have been falling much like the El Niño times. But unlike the El Niño, the rains are falling erratically. I had an opportunity to go round the traditional tourist circuit and what I found out was amazing.

In Amboseli, the rains have not reached there yet. The swamps are still dry. There is an indication of some showers to have fallen for a few days, which has transformed the area to beautiful green plains.

In anticipation of the heavy rains that usually fall in this area, most of the animals have moved to the higher grounds outside the park. In fact, I found more animals along the 18 kilometers dirt road leading to the park entrance.

But the ever present herds of elephants are still in the park, picking what they can from the remaining vegetation in the swamps. The lodges were full to the brim during the Easter holidays that also coincided with the jubilee celebrations after having worn the recent elections and the court petition.

From Amboseli, I headed to Nyeri. I was surprised to find very little rains here. Heading to the north, the only part that seemed to have received heavy rains was Nanyuki and Imenti region as one heads to Isiolo.

In samburu, localised rains were falling in different regions in the park and outside. The mighty Uaso Nyiro river was not overly full but was indicative of rains falling upstream. Although the lodges were almost empty, game drive was very fruitful with greenery everywhere.

It was in Nakuru that I started noticing the shocking destruction of the rains. This part of the country seems to have had rains all year. The Rift valley lakes are full to the brim.

The once scenic Lake Bogoria has extended close to the gate on the northern side, and also cut off the road to the southern picnic site and campsite.

The geysers are no longer visible, save for some bubbles seen far from the shoreline and a few fumerals here and there. The salinity of the lakes has been greatly diluted. Although the flamingos are present in good numbers, it is easy to note how desperate the situation is for the birds.

Flamingos are filter feeders. They feed on the blue-green algae, a microscopic plant that grows in saline water. For the algae to grow there need to be sunlight penetrating through the substratum.

With the water level growing by day and mostly from runoff water from the farming community around the lake, the water is partially brown and little light can penetrate to aid in photosynthesis.

A single flamingo must be able to filter at least 60 grams of dry weight of the algae per day in order to survive. This is easily achievable when the algae is plentiful, and even allows the flamingo to rest and prune itself.

But at Lake Bogoria now, the flamingos are busy all day long, scattered all over the lake shore and some swimming in the middle of the lake trying their best to sieve what they can.

At Lake Nakuru, most of the roads that had been newly done have gone. The authorities have done the best they could to make new roads but they seem overwhelmed by the swelling lake.

The road towards the baboon cliff has been swallowed up. Though a new road has already been graved along the edges of the park, the lake is still threateningly close to reaching the main gate area and the staff quarters.

The effort of the management to keep the Lake Nakuru park still a major attraction, is highly commendable. Every point of interest in the park is made reachable at all costs.

Be it the baboon cliff, out of Africa picnic site, Makalia falls, are all accessible despite the challenges. Kudos to Lake Nakuru park managers.

Getting to Mara after Narok is a nightmare. Bridges along the road to Oloolaimutia gate have gone. Access to Mara has been limited to Sekenani gate only.

Inside the park, the game drive routes have gone as well. One has to keep to the main roads even with 4X4 off roads. This is one of the lowest low season that I have witnessed so far.

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