I have been called a skeptic and even a little too critical as far as Kenya’s fashion scene goes. My debut into the fashion world to many seemed accidental but for me it has always been strategic, I needed to understand the fashion environment before I started to impact any change in attitude and consumer behaviour, so I travelled the continent and afar, attending some of the most prestigious platforms, interviewing designers and rubbing shoulders with the right people in the industry.
As I gathered valuable insight about Africa’s fashion scene, I unfairly compared my own country’s shortcomings to the staged affairs I was privileged to be a part of in various fashion cities often overlooking the struggles those industries faced – after all the visitor never sees the struggles of the hostess.
So I overlooked the fact that beyond the immaculate presentations of fashion weeks in cities such as Accra, Johannesburg, Lagos, Cape Town and other leading cities, the fashion industry as a whole in Africa has such a weak foundation and structure that professionals often dig deep in their pockets to produce work that compares to global counterparts – because we are judged equally regardless of location (and you’ve got the internet to thank for that folks)
I have a vision for what the Kenyan industry should be and I never ascribe to the notion “at least they are trying”. As a believer that hard work (not dreams) pay off, like many, I easily overlook the steps being made Kenya’s fashion industry that will contribute to a successful fashion economy for years to come.
2014 was iconic for Kenya. For starters the acknowledgement of the fashion industry beyond the fashion industry means a lot. Lifestyle brands have created associations between fashion and their products as they try to connect with an ever-discerning audience. Take for instance Vivo, a clothing brand conceptualised by Wandia Gichuru which started off by importing clothes. Early in 2014 the brand set up a local manufacturing workshop starting off with 30 per cent locally produced products, growing gradually to over half its range made in Kenya. Vivo is also launching in 2015 a young designer program to help nurture emerging designers. Global brand, Martini endorsed my campaign, 100DaysOfAfricanFashion as well as the ad campaign for Mille Collines menswear brand and store launch.
Unilever’s Camay and Lux brands launched in style following engaging digital campaigns that featured designers such as Wambui Kibue of Angelsmile and Ogake Mochache among others.
Nivea used the social media space in an aggressive search of Nivea Black and White face, asking followers to vote their favorite model and through this campaign Kenyan top model Deliah was selected and awarded a paying ad campaign by Nivea, which was shot in September
Talent Searches are now looking to the fashion industry with platforms such as FA254’s Designer for Tomorrow taking center stage and Equity’s Vijana na Equity Campaign also set to launch in January this year.
The Rise of The Fashion Blogger
To mention fashion in Kenya today without acknowledging the significant impact personal style bloggers have had in shaping Kenyan’s general awareness of their own style. Female bloggers such as Sharon Mundia of This Is Ess, Nancie Mwai, Sylvia Njoki, Vonnette Von, Joy Kendi and Lucia Musau among others have become such a force to reckon with that most Kenyan women will admit to visiting these blogs before shopping or dressing up for the day. More significantly thanks to the persistence and professionalism of these bloggers, ad agencies are splitting digital revenues to accommodate them either by sponsoring their blogs or using these personalities as influencers. Award-winning blogger Sharon Mundia in 2014 not only bagged a number of awards; she is the face of lifestyle brand Store 66 and earned herself a spot on Capital Lifestyle.
Greater Heights for the Styling Set
Never before has Kenya seen so many positive strides in the fashion industry as 2014. One of my favourite highlights of 2014 was the #MadeOfBlack campaign that featured top creative personalities across including renowned stylist Annabel Onyango whose personal style warrants her own feature! Beyond this campaign, it’s been a great year of stylists as a whole. Connie Aluoch, Sunny Dolat, Wambui Thimba, and Onyango each one with their own aesthetic have managed to secure high profile assignments on regular work basis, its almost impossible to book them for anything.
Kenyan based designers creating great impressions internationally
It’s been a great year for apparel designers too. Founder of Mcensal School of Fashion and designer for her eponymous brand, Sally Karago paid homage to the Turkana community in a modern interpretation at the Africa Fashion Week NY in October. Designer Ann McCreath also shows a refreshing collection of hand-painted silhouettes for women and an edgy menswear collection for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Africa while Lalesso ventured into a new market in New York with their S/S15 collection.
My favourite showcase was definitely the new collection by fashion house Mille Collines who infused street and formal wear with strong street elements in their hand-painted slogan sweaters.
It is also worth noting that the self-named fashion house, Wambui Mukenyi fashion label which has grown household name for the professional woman, launched a bridal range in 2014. Her business model is worth reviewing for businesses that are looking to commercialize fashion.
Apparel brands to own in 2015 include Katungulu Mwendwa, Njema Helena, Lalesso, Mille Collines and Afrostreet Kolletions by Yvonne
Shining Through and bagging it - Yes Made In Kenya
Kenya’s oldest locally produced luxury label, Sandstorm Kenya that is owned and carried by members of the British Royal family, has become a most after luggage brand globally. The label is now stepping into the fashion realm with its new affordable colorful canvas range - a delight every Kenyan must own.
A great direction for fashion is the emergence of new jewelry labels. Designer Adele Dejak has been an industry mainstay, often getting our attention for her incredible collaborations. Her new store at the Village Market opened this year and is breath of fresh air, setting industry standards beyond the art of making jewelry and into visual merchandise.
There are new comers to watch as well, my favorite labels would have to be luxury ethical label Loyangalani by Gladys Macharia who’s perhaps the most talented jeweler of her time and new kid on the block Ami Doshi Shah for her label I AM I who bring such a personalized and refreshing twist to bespoke jewelry. Footwear brands to watch would include Swaheelies by Chania, Galago Sandals by Adhiambo Lauwers and Afros Slippers by Emo Rugene.
Of retail spaces and platforms
The opening of the Kenyan designer collective, Mofti, initiated emerging luxury designer Katungulu Mwendwa is a great step in addressing the need for destination stores for locally made brands. Look out for online shopping platforms such as maridadi.co. And coming soon, an African retail experience ichyulu.co
