“I don’t mean to bother, ma’am but, can I take a picture with you?”
These were the words of an innocent 17-year-old boy, whose smile broadened as I smiled back and nodded.
Baslang Debbrarma was astonished to see a black beauty grace their capital city of Agartala, in the Indian state of Tripura. He took out his Samsung phone and took a picture to post on social media.
I felt like a tourist attraction, but it wasn’t unpleasant. Baslang then led me to meet his jovial, well-dressed mother, who wore a pink sari to match her light skin. Her husband also stared at me in awe.
Smiling and looking at me, the three asked for more pictures at the Maharaja Bir Bikram Airport.
This curious but pleasing episode made me realise that India still needs time to understand that it had indeed become a tourist destination for global visitors.
With this in mind, I set off to explore Northeast India, which only opened relatively recently to foreign tourists.
I was determined to find out about India’s legendary hospitality, its natural scenery, waterfalls around the state, the forests, the Buddhist monasteries, the snow-capped mountains and the wildlife. In Northeast India, there are elephants, leopards, tigers, lots of monkeys, birds, yaks (they look like shaggy buffalo). A safari there is well worthwhile.
All seemed like fiction and internet research until I arrived at the airport
“Are you from Kenya?” asked one of the government escorts awaiting me and my friend Bakul at the airport.
WARM WELCOME
We were to attend the International Tourism Mart from November 22 to 24 in Argatala. Present were 41 foreign delegates from 18 countries, 23 tour operators and travel agents, and 18 media representatives and journalists.
Bakul and I when we arrived at
hotel Ginger accompanied by pretty ladies and a gentlemen dressed in red scarfs and shuka's./NANCY AGUTU
Out of caution, I didn’t answer the governor escort because you never know. I thought you cannot trust anyone in a foreign country.
But to my surprise, a team dressed in red shukas greeted us with smiles and gave us what they called ‘risha’, a scarf placed around the neck to welcome visitors, as well as gifts.
As they put the risha, with red dots and yellow strips, around my neck, they all smiled, with very white teeth, folded their hands together, prayer-like and said “Welcome.”
Behold, my first hospitality wish was realised. They quickly took us to the baggage belt and helped us with the luggage, taking it to a waiting taxi.
As we entered the comfortable vehicle with AC (it was extremely hot; I could place the weather at 34 degrees outside), we thought the hospitality had ended there. But then we reached the Ginger Hotel.
Another set of six pretty ladies presented us with more rishas as they ushered us into the hotel reception.
“What is this about? I have never been treated this way anywhere. This is just so awesome,” Bakul said in astonishment.
But since I felt the same way, I kept quiet because I did not want to feel so ridiculously awkward.
Fast-forward to the Mart opening ceremony. Tripura Chief Minister Biplab Kumar praised his state, saying all we needed was to explore and see for ourselves how rich it was.
“Tripura is pure, has unspoiled natural beauty and hospitable people who are totally untouched by city life,” he said, amid laughter and applause from the audience.
Tourism ministry secretary Rashmi Verma agreed. “There is huge potential in the homesteads. They have unique tourism destinations like the temples. These places draw many pilgrims into the (Northeastern) states,” she said.
Adding: “The only thing we need right now is good connectivity, like having choppers or direct flights, which the government is working on.”
ENORMOUS WATERFALL
And true to their words, the state had far better scenery than I ever thought could exist in Northeast India.
As the night came to an end, different states in the Northeast showcased their cultures through song and dance, and what a serene music it was.
As we travelled to another state, Arunachal Pradesh, the trip was not easy because it was like climbing a zigzag trail on a mountain to get to your destination.
But the most interesting part was along the way, where there were amazing historical sites and people who were ready to show you around.
Nuranang' waterfalls at the Arunachal Pradesh./NANCY AGUTU
Though the journey took two days, sleep was not part of the menu. “You sleep, you miss the beautiful Arunachal goodies,” our tour guide, Tsering Wange, joked as he looked at us during a stopover.
We had stopped to look at the very beautiful and enormous Nuranang Waterfalls.
Also known as ‘Bong Bong’ Falls, Nuranang is 100m high and located in Tawang district of Arunachal.
It is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in this part of the country, yet it is unknown to many travellers.
When we arrived, we could see a glimpse of it from where we were forced to abandon our vehicle and trek to enjoy its splendour.
Splashing and spewing water in all directions, the waterfall also showered some of the visitors, who had moved close to take pictures and videos.
Wange told us that the Nuranang Falls was named after a local Monpa girl called Nura, who helped the Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat, a Maha Vir Chakra awardee soldier during the 1962 Sino-Indian War. He was later captured by Chinese forces.
“Many people do not know this waterfall exists. But we as its people are happy and excited that at least we get to see some of these wonders of the world,” Wange said.
INSIDE A MONASTERY
After our photo session, which took almost an hour, it was time to move to another Arunachal wonder: the Tawang’ monastery.
The monastery is the most popular in the state known by locals as the Gaden Namgyal Lhatse. Sitting at the peak of a hill, the monastery is about 10,000 feet above sea level.
Gold Buddha at Tawang' monastery./NANCY AGUTU
It looks like a fort from afar, and shimmers with royalty as you approach it, suggesting a mini-kingdom. Monks dressed in maroon robes walked nearby as we took in the scenery.
Since language was a barrier, our guide informed us that some monks, aged between 10 and 20 years, were on their way to school.
One of the monks who agreed to take a picture with the tourists in Arunachal Pradesh./NANCY AGUTU
The sight that greeted us upon entering the compound was of a giant golden statue of Lord Buddha, sitting peacefully in the middle of the northern side of the monastery. It was breathtaking.
On the way back to our hotel, Pemaling, which was in Dirang', Arunachal', we encountered a yak. This was the most amazing creature I have ever seen.
The long-haired domesticated bovic, found throughout the Himalayan region of the Indian subcontinent, was standing in our way.
As the driver hooted, the heavily built animal sauntered across the road. The black yak had a bulky frame, sturdy legs, rounded cloven hooves, and extremely dense, long fur that hung below its belly.
The Yak as seen on our way to Arunachal Pradesh./ NANCY AGUTU
As we moved closer, we noticed small ears, a wide forehead with smooth long horns, generally dark in colour.
“Both sexes have long, shaggy hair with a dense woolly undercoat over the chest, flanks, and thighs to insulate them from the cold,” Wange said.
Yak milk, meat, butter and yoghurt are very tasty.
This is just the beginning of a beautiful untold story. Stay tuned for Part Two!